A) A lighthouse that was built onshore is now well offshore.
B) Oyster shells that grew in the sheltered lagoon behind the barrier island are now found on the front beach.
C) Stumps of trees that grew along the lagoon are now found on the front beach.
D) Barrier island beaches are now more easily eroded than they were one hundred years ago.
E) Fine-grained lagoon sediments are layered beneath the sands of the barrier island.
G) A) and C)
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In winter,sand is washed offsh...View Answer
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A) It moves straight up and down with the water surface.
B) It doesn't move. The wave merely moves over anything in deep water.
C) It shifts back and forth in a horizontal plane.
D) It moves in a circular motion in a vertical plane, with the top of the wave moving in the direction of wave travel.
E) It moves in a circular motion in a horizontal plane.
G) A) and B)
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A) Onshore winds drawn by rising warm air over land pull the tops of the waves to break.
B) Water in deep-water waves does not move forward with the wave; it moves in a circular motion.
C) Waves speed up in shallow water, so they lurch forward and break.
D) Water in deep-water waves moves only up and down; it switches to forward and back in shallow water.
E) Waves only break in the deep ocean during tropical storms.
G) B) and C)
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A) It gradually moves landward, rising with the sea level.
B) It completely erodes away.
C) It is gradually submerged beneath the sea.
D) Its sand is swept farther inland, disappearing in the former lagoon behind the island.
E) Companies try to scoop it up for use in road building before it completely submerges.
G) D) and E)
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A) Learn to live with actively eroding beaches, not fighting natural processes.
B) Move buildings and roads back from the beach after storms.
C) Remove old dams on rivers feeding sand to the beach.
D) Stabilize sea cliffs, so they don't collapse onto beaches.
E) Move cliff-top houses back from the cliffs to let cliffs erode.
G) B) and D)
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Energy is ...View Answer
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A) Sea level is rising with global warming, so waves are reaching farther onshore.
B) More frequent El Niño storms are eroding them.
C) More vigorous longshore drift is removing the sand.
D) Dams on rivers no longer supply sand and gravel to feed longshore drift.
E) People have placed riprap and cliff-protection structures, so less sea cliff material is eroding to make sand.
G) None of the above
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A) incoming wave velocity and water density
B) water depth and wave velocity
C) wave height and water depth
D) wind strength and wave height
E) height of the wave and wave length
G) B) and E)
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A) Waves can't get over the logs to get to the sea cliffs.
B) Waves have to be higher to reach over the logs and rocks to reach the sea cliffs.
C) Wave energy is taken up in moving the logs and rocks.
D) Logs bouncing up and down on the beach pound the grains together, making them more difficult to erode.
E) Logs and rocks break up the direct forward thrust of the waves, making them more erratic.
G) B) and C)
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A) Wave height rises against the wall, and erosion concentrates at the base of the wall.
B) Waves that strike the riprap are reflected back against the incoming waves to cancel them.
C) Waves move up and down against steep surfaces in deep water, so they don't do anything.
D) Waves lose their energy against riprap or seawalls, so they permanently protect the coast.
E) Waves pulverize the riprap and seawalls, creating sand that helps maintain the beach.
G) A) and C)
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A) deeper water
B) shallower water
C) larger waves
D) finer grains
E) higher average winds
G) A) and D)
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Nature gets rid of some of it.Some is bl...View Answer
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A) about 1 meter
B) about 5 meters
C) about 10 meters
D) about 30 meters
E) about 100 meters
G) A) and B)
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A) The storm generating the waves is far offshore.
B) There must be a point of land that is sheltering your location from the wind.
C) These are small tsunami waves generated by an earthquake.
D) A big ship must have gone by.
E) A playful elephant jumped into the water across the bay.
G) B) and D)
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